Still Losing Power

[cprob]

Hi Guys,

 

This is a follow on from the following post: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=22533

 

I have a 1997 1.9 tdi 90bhp Gal and she keeps losing power. The car is ok at first, I can drive it for hours with no problems but then it suddenly loses power, struggles on hills and max speed is 70mph (ish). If I stop, turn off the ignition and re-start it's ok again but quickly loses power again. I've changed the MAF (from a breakers yard), checked the vacuum pipes for leaks (not all easy to see though) but I've still got problems.

 

I cleared all the codes, re-ran the scan and now have the following results:

 

Address 01: Engine Labels: 028-906-021 -AHU.LBL

Controller: 028 906 021 ES

Component: 1,91 R4 EDC GOOSG 1448

Coding: 00002

Shop #: WSC 00020

3 Faults Found:

00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)

29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

 

65535 - Internal Controller Error

37-10 - Memory Error

 

00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure

17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent

 

Readiness: N/A

 

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: Redir Fail!

Controller: 7M0 907 379

Component: ABS ITTAE 04 GI V00

Coding: 02802

Shop #: WSC 00020

No fault code found.

 

Regarding the coolant temperature sensor fault, I'm assuming I just need a new sensor? I'm a bit worried about the Internal Controller error, does anyone know what this means? So it looks like it's now down to the Intake Manifold Pressure fault, any ideas on what the most likely cause is? I priced up for a new Charger Pressure Control Valve but I don't want to shell out

[taxi2]

hi

i had this problem. (and to put it in simple talk ) it was a small hole in vac pipe (did not find 1st time round ) it tells the ecu to use more fuel, then ecu say nomore fuel thanks. so when you switch off and back on it resets the ecu . i also put a new boost control solenoid valve on ( could be that only cost

[new nige]

I have these same fault codes (65535 & 00575 on AHU engine) and have been trying to resolve it for some time now too, replaced all but one vacuum hose. The one that goes through bulk head is remaining but had a split near the manifold intake, trimmed this and the problem improved significantly. I have been revisiting this after living with an improved but not ideal situation for a while. Last night I blanked off the egr which had its vacuum feed plugged by previous owner to disable it. Test drive suggests this might be part of the problem. Question is, if your egr is not fully shut due to being coked up but (bodged) isolated from the vacuum feed could this loose manifold pressure and hence report these fault codes? I will clear codes tonight and report findings in due course.

[cprob]

Update as follows .... So far I've fitted a replacement MAF, Pressure Control Valve and a MAP sensor(all from a breakers), I've also fitted a new coolant temp sensor. I've checked all the vacuum pipes by putting them under vacuum with a heafty suck (eeewww!), the pipes hold a vacuum ok. And there's no change, I'm still losing power!!!!! The only thing I haven't checked is the EGR valve as I understand it's a pig of a job to get off and clean. Can anyone give me any advice please on just how troublesome it is to get the EGR valve off on a Mk 1 Gal? Also, is it possible for the vacuum pipes to collapse under vacuum causing this problem? Although there are no leaks the pipes are old and a bit ragged looking. I get full power until about 3,000rpm and then I feel the power die off. Once I turn the ignition off and back on it's ok again until I hit around 3,000rpm .... then the power goes ... aaaarrrrghh!!!!

 

All advice welcome (by the way, the car has done about 180K).

 

Cheers,

Robin.

[chrispb123456]

You need to be really sure these pipes are clear and not collapsed internally, they may look OK on the outside.

[new nige]

Update as follows .... So far I've fitted a replacement MAF, Pressure Control Valve and a MAP sensor(all from a breakers), I've also fitted a new coolant temp sensor. I've checked all the vacuum pipes by putting them under vacuum with a heafty suck (eeewww!), the pipes hold a vacuum ok. And there's no change, I'm still losing power!!!!! The only thing I haven't checked is the EGR valve as I understand it's a pig of a job to get off and clean. Can anyone give me any advice please on just how troublesome it is to get the EGR valve off on a Mk 1 Gal? Also, is it possible for the vacuum pipes to collapse under vacuum causing this problem? Although there are no leaks the pipes are old and a bit ragged looking. I get full power until about 3,000rpm and then I feel the power die off. Once I turn the ignition off and back on it's ok again until I hit around 3,000rpm .... then the power goes ... aaaarrrrghh!!!!

 

All advice welcome (by the way, the car has done about 180K).

 

Cheers,

Robin.

 

Is the MAP sensor on a MK1 97 not inside the ECU? (Mine is also an Mk1 97) how did you change it? The egr valve is quite easy to get at you could get 2 blanking plates from ebay and remove it temporarily while you give it a clean and still run the car. Mine is blanked permanently.

[cprob]

Update as follows .... So far I've fitted a replacement MAF, Pressure Control Valve and a MAP sensor(all from a breakers), I've also fitted a new coolant temp sensor. I've checked all the vacuum pipes by putting them under vacuum with a heafty suck (eeewww!), the pipes hold a vacuum ok. And there's no change, I'm still losing power!!!!! The only thing I haven't checked is the EGR valve as I understand it's a pig of a job to get off and clean. Can anyone give me any advice please on just how troublesome it is to get the EGR valve off on a Mk 1 Gal? Also, is it possible for the vacuum pipes to collapse under vacuum causing this problem? Although there are no leaks the pipes are old and a bit ragged looking. I get full power until about 3,000rpm and then I feel the power die off. Once I turn the ignition off and back on it's ok again until I hit around 3,000rpm .... then the power goes ... aaaarrrrghh!!!!

 

All advice welcome (by the way, the car has done about 180K).

 

Cheers,

Robin.

 

Is the MAP sensor on a MK1 97 not inside the ECU? (Mine is also an Mk1 97) how did you change it? The egr valve is quite easy to get at you could get 2 blanking plates from ebay and remove it temporarily while you give it a clean and still run the car. Mine is blanked permanently.

 

 

I may have called it the MAP sensor in error! The Haynes manual calls it an Air Intake Charge Pressure Port/Sensor. Whatever it's called, it didn't make any difference when I changed it! Think my next course of action is going to be to change all the vacuum pipes.

 

I've been reading on here that it's not easy to get at the EGR valve but it looks like I've been reading about the Mk2. Mine's a Mk1 and it does look easy to do.

[new nige]

mk1 egr is easy to get to remove the bulk head tray, then its 4No. Alan key bolts. If you remove the whole valve this will leave an open vent to the exhaust and inlet manifold hence you may want to blank these off temporarily while you clean it. Oh and when you unbolt the egr there is a gasket between the flanges you need to catch this or it will drop down the engine void and you will have to remove the under shield to recover it. This will turn a 20 minute job into and hour and make you swear allot.

[cprob]

mk1 egr is easy to get to remove the bulk head tray, then its 4No. Alan key bolts. If you remove the whole valve this will leave an open vent to the exhaust and inlet manifold hence you may want to blank these off temporarily while you clean it. Oh and when you unbolt the egr there is a gasket between the flanges you need to catch this or it will drop down the engine void and you will have to remove the under shield to recover it. This will turn a 20 minute job into and hour and make you swear allot.

 

 

Trust me ..... I've already sworn a lot!!!!!! ;)

[cprob]

The EGR was indeed easy to get off and clean. Although it made no difference to my problem!! I'm still losing power .... huge sigh :-(

 

I'm increasingly thinking it's the ECU ... unless anyone has any other ideas???? Pleeeeease????

 

Can I get an ECU from a breakers or does it have to be specific for the car?

 

Cheers,

Robin.

[new nige]

I have the same fault codes, I believe fault code 65535 relates to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor it is called up as an internal control module error, but this could either be the sensor physically inside the ecu box or the hose going to it. This is why I asked if the MAP was in the ECU. On mine a hose goes from the inlet manifold (next to the thermometer through the bulkhead and connects to the ECU box) later models had the physical map sensor on the inlet pipe I believe. My next move is to change this one remaining hose, if that doesn

[cprob]

Thanks New Nige, that is really useful. I'll check this out and hopefully it will sort the problem once and for all. I'll let you know how I get on with removing the ECU etc.

 

Cheers,

Robin.

[new nige]

Had a good poke about at the hose that runs between the Inlet manifold and ECU MAP sensor on my mk1, has any one changed this it looks almost imposible to get to? I am considering an routing a new hose with an alternative route. Any one know of a good way of getting from the engin compartment to behind the clocks?

[new nige]

Had a poke about behind the clocks tonight, the hose comes out the ecu and drops down toward the fuse box. From when I was last in the fuse box I seem to remember seeing it, hence my next angle of attack is via the fuse box.

[cprob]

Had a poke about behind the clocks tonight, the hose comes out the ecu and drops down toward the fuse box. From when I was last in the fuse box I seem to remember seeing it, hence my next angle of attack is via the fuse box.

 

 

It might be an idea to run a new pipe outside the car (through the window) first just to try it. It may save a lot of time and agro if you find out it doesn't make any difference!

[new nige]

Found the MAP hose on either side of the bulk head it goes through near the accelerator pedal, you can access it easily by removing the lower fuse box cover (no need to fold out fuse box), doesn

[cprob]

My new vacuum hoses arrived this morning so I'm going out now for a play. Although I'm confident I haven't any leaks as I can put the hoses under vacuum and they hold ok .... which doesn't indicate a leak to me!! My concern is that a hose may be collapsing under vacuum which causes the car to go into limp mode. Before I go through the pain of changing the MAP hose, I intend to run a new hose through the window just to see if it fixes the problem first. I'll update again later but in the mean time, any advice is welcome!!!!

 

Cheers,

Robin.

[chrispb123456]

My new vacuum hoses arrived this morning so I'm going out now for a play. Although I'm confident I haven't any leaks as I can put the hoses under vacuum and they hold ok .... which doesn't indicate a leak to me!! My concern is that a hose may be collapsing under vacuum which causes the car to go into limp mode. Before I go through the pain of changing the MAP hose, I intend to run a new hose through the window just to see if it fixes the problem first. I'll update again later but in the mean time, any advice is welcome!!!!

 

Cheers,

Robin.

Don't forget the short hose inside the ECU :blink:

[cprob]

My new vacuum hoses arrived this morning so I'm going out now for a play. Although I'm confident I haven't any leaks as I can put the hoses under vacuum and they hold ok .... which doesn't indicate a leak to me!! My concern is that a hose may be collapsing under vacuum which causes the car to go into limp mode. Before I go through the pain of changing the MAP hose, I intend to run a new hose through the window just to see if it fixes the problem first. I'll update again later but in the mean time, any advice is welcome!!!!

 

Cheers,

Robin.

Don't forget the short hose inside the ECU :blink:

 

 

Just changed all the vacuum hoses (but not the MAP hose or the short hose inside the ECU) and thought I'd take the old Gal for a test run. Are you ready for this??? ...... I think she's fixed!!! I couldn't get her to go into the dreaded 'limp mode', she kept full power and full revs :D Some of the hoses that I took off were really badly deteriorated. Although they appeared to hold a vacuum there may have been a small leak or they could have been collapsing (they really were bad, particularly the two going to the turbo). I won't bother with the MAP hose at the moment and I'll see how she goes over the next week or so. She's done 180,000 miles (160,000 with me over the last 12 years) and here's hoping we'll do plenty more yet! I've got a 600 mile trip to do next week and I'll post again to let you know how she goes.

 

Many thanks for all the great advice.

 

Cheers,

Robin.

[snowytop]

Just changed all the vacuum hoses (but not the MAP hose or the short hose inside the ECU) and thought I'd take the old Gal for a test run. Are you ready for this??? ...... I think she's fixed!!! I couldn't get her to go into the dreaded 'limp mode', she kept full power and full revs :blink: Some of the hoses that I took off were really badly deteriorated. Although they appeared to hold a vacuum there may have been a small leak or they could have been collapsing (they really were bad, particularly the two going to the turbo). I won't bother with the MAP hose at the moment and I'll see how she goes over the next week or so. She's done 180,000 miles (160,000 with me over the last 12 years) and here's hoping we'll do plenty more yet! I've got a 600 mile trip to do next week and I'll post again to let you know how she goes.

 

Many thanks for all the great advice.

 

Cheers,

Robin.

 

Cprob that

[new nige]

i am still stuck on the MAP hose, but havent had time to give it a real go, of interest I believe the hoses are actually under pressure not vacum.

[cprob]

i am still stuck on the MAP hose, but havent had time to give it a real go, of interest I believe the hoses are actually under pressure not vacum.

 

 

Yes, the MAP hose is under pressure not vacuum. I left the spring clamp off the large 90

[new nige]

Changed the MAP sensor hose thought I would post how this was done to help anyone else, fish the bit that comes out the engine compartment, ensure it is free to pull through, get a long screw and cut the head off, thread it on the old and new hose splicing it, trim the braiding gently pull through from the accelerator peddle area, remove clocks and finish the job. Doubt it made any difference as the old hose seems in good condition, will check tomorrow.

[cprob]

After changing all the vacuum hoses the car is still running great. I re-ran the Vag Com today (after clearing all the old fault codes first) and now the following fault code is coming up:

 

65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error

37-00 - Faulty

 

This is the same number (65535) as I previously got although the wording is now slightly different (see first post).

 

Can anyone advise please what this fault code means and should I worry about it? After all, the car is running fine now with no signs of any problems ... touch wood!

 

Cheers,

Robin.

[new nige]

Robin

 

I did all the hoses accept the MAP two a year or so ago, things significantly improved (just like you). I haven